Damson fresh fruit, unconfected, pure, unsullied, like a mountain stream, like a spring morning, there is eucalyptus on the nose and plenty of ripeness on the palate. Lovely colour and a delicately balanced warm finish. It’s only a wine after all. But not light, not thin, it has Merlot down to a t, the t of tasty, tingly and top banana. Oh dear. Another glass vicar?

Vivallis varietals have become benchmarks for us. They are clean and uncluttered examples of their mother grapes. There is no mucking about, no oak, no over extraction. For such a young winemaker……. has a very old head. No running up flags or show- boating, just expressions of outstandingly clear fruit. If you were to visit the Agris valley near Roveretto where the majority of the Vivallis grapes are grown you’d perhaps get a feel for the wines. Tidy, well ordered rows of vines, looked after by aficionados who work elsewhere in the week and go out in the evenings and on weekends to tidy, prune, coddle and encourage the best from their family small holdings. This process has been going on for generations and the products are worth the effort and the calm common sense. These are northern Italians in the foothills of the Dolomites, Austriais not far. It can be chilly even in May and they’re awfully well organised.