Blackcurrant fruit but with a vibrant backbone. We can’t expect the depth of cigar boxes and aromas of horse saddles or whatever, not at this price. But what we can also avoid is fruit that’s been in the sun too long and is all burnt out and overdone, fruit that is all sugar and no spice and steeliness. And steeliness there is to Vivallis wines. So here you get that slight rasp across the tongue of blackcurrant. It’s saying you like me yes, but how about me with a plate of Salami and Parma Ham?

Vivallis varietals have become benchmarks for us. They are clean and uncluttered examples of their mother grapes. There is no mucking about, no oak, no over extraction. For such a young winemaker……. has a very old head. No running up flags or show- boating, just expressions of outstandingly clear fruit. If you were to visit the Agris valley near Rovereto where the majority of the Vivallis grapes are grown you’d perhaps get a feel for the wines. Tidy, well ordered rows of vines, looked after by aficionados who work elsewhere in the week and go out in the evenings and on weekends to tidy, prune, coddle and encourage the best from their family small holdings. This process has been going on for generations and the products are worth the effort and the calm common sense. These are northern Italians in the foothills of the Dolomites, Austria is not far. It can be chilly even in May and they’re awfully well organised.