Robinia Catarratto IGT 2009 – Cantina Alto Belice
£6.95
This used to be the most prolific grape in Sicily, it was grown, along with Grillo, not for the spicy refreshment we love now but for the odd cooked thick rich wonderfulness of Marsala. Which is still made but really very rarely drunk, you are more likely to taste it in a Tiramisu than in a glass. But what Catarratto has is obviously an affinity with Sicily, it can cope with the heat, but it was a great combination of greenness and gold. This is also present in our Benede Catarratto from Alessandro di Camporeale. Though the Alessandro wines are perhaps a cut above Alto Belice even here with the Robinia versions we have the combination of fresh melony fruit but with a distinctive golden unctuousness that makes them splendid on their own or with food.
Alto Belice are a splendidly appointed modern cooperative in the Commune di San Ciperello. They have, over the last five years, invested heavily in both the winery and in support of their growers. This has produced enropmous improvements in the quality and longevity of their products. Interestingly, they are now looking to increase their exports in an exponential manner. So, we will have plenty of finely produced, fruit forward warm Sicilian bottles for the foreseeable future.


