The compact region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia borders on Austria, Slovenia and the northern Adriatic Sea. Home to an array of native and international varieties, the Friulians have applied studied vineyard techniques and avant-garde enology to the production of highly distinctive whites, as well as some eminently attractive reds. It is here in Friuli that we found our producers from the Il Roncal estate, and we were pretty excited about having discovered them.

Varietal wines dominate the multitude of types included in Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s nine DOC categories (including part of Lison-Pramaggiore, shared with Veneto). Friuli has built a glowing reputation for white wines made by relatively small wineries and estates. The exchange of air currents between the Alps and the Adriatic has created a highly favourable habitat for vines on the terraced slopes called ronchi.

In the Friulan dialect, the name “Roncal” means  a ‘hillside holding cultivated in terraces’, and in fact it is precisely the “ronchi” which dominate this striking landscape. The slopes of the Il Roncal vineyards encircle the Montebello hillside which is favoured by an excellent exposure and a marl/sandstone combination soil which is ideal for grape-growing. The Roncal estate deliberately chooses to harvest late, ensuring that grapes are picked only at their most ripe. Vinification is carried out according to tradition, at controlled temperatures within the estate’s cellars. Tradition and modernity cohabit.  Therefore, alongside the shiny, cold stainless steel vats, are sweet-smelling oak casks where the wines are left to mature and their bouquets to develop. The philosophy behind the estate completely envelops this deep, although pleasant, contrast where the new is put to the test in the hope of improving that which has already been proven.

The antique Picolit is a rare, superior quality grape grown in Friuli’s Colli Orientali region with noble origins. It is considered, and rightly so, a jewel in the crown of Italian wines. For centuries, it tickled the palate of princes and bishops and it remains the Friuli wine par excellence. Picolit was produced as early as 1700 by Count Asquini di Fagagna, who exported it in green blown-glass bottles to the rest of Italy, and also to London, Paris, Amsterdam and Russia. Among his clients was the Holy Roman Emperor who considered his Picolit to be “better than any other wine.”  Its praises were sung by celebrated Venetian playwright, Carlo Goldoni, who called it ‘the delight of popes, cardinals and emperors.’

Picolit vines are extremely delicate, yielding only 10 to 15 tiny grapes. A consequence of the difficulty of harvesting this grape is that annual production of Picolit never exceeds 50,000 litres. It is only harvested manually and late in the growing season. For this reason it commands high prices. The grape bunches are handpicked and placed in low boxes to age, and after another 25 days raisining period in crates in a well-ventilated and conditioned room, the grapes are stemmed and lightly crushed. After a soft pressing, fermentation begins in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature and is completed in French oak barriques where it remains on the lees for 9 months.

This noble dessert wine is said by Il Roncal to be ‘vino da meditazione, di quelli da bere col cuore’. This is wine to be savoured, enjoyed, ‘drunk from the heart’ and saved for special occasions (…or moments of pure indulgence). Beautiful on its own, but for a divine contrast of tastes on the palate, it also compliments strong cheeses, oysters and sea truffles. You can purchase some to enjoy here.