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Located 450m above sea level on a southerly-facing slope just above Trento lies Maso Cantanghel, a small estate of some 6.5 hectares. Its 'Cantina' is in fact an old Austrio- Hungarian fortress built in 1868. In 1983 the owner, Piero Zabini, was among the first producers to take a risk with the planting of Pinot Nero grape at this altitude. Going against received wisdom, he insisted on planting the vines on the higher slopes, in what was considered a marginal area. His gamble paid off, producing an elegant wine with great intensity and structure. As one seasoned Sommelier put it: "On tasting this wine blind I would have guessed it was a top flight Burgundy from the '78 or '85 vintage." Without doubt these are wines that uphold and defend the best traditions of Trentino wine making. Piero produces just over 1000 cases of each of his wines and with his particular love of the Pinot Nero grape his recent planting should give us more of this superb wine.
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The Wines
"Forte di Mezzo" - Trentino Bianco 1997
"Tajapreda" - Trentino Merlot 1999
"Vigna Piccola" - Trentino Chardonnay 1997
Pinot Nero Riserva di Piero Zabini 1997
"Rosso Pila" - Trentino Cabernet Sauvignon 1997
"Solitaire Sauvignon" - 1999
Tasting Notes
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Maso Cantanghel "Forte di Mezzo" Trentino Bianco '97 (12.5%)
Bottle Price £9.95
Case Price £119.40
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Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay
This Bianco has a delicate, floral nose with a hint of oak. It is medium-bodied, quite dry, and has a rich full flavour. The finish is medium to long and refreshingly clean.
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Maso Cantanghel "Vigna Piccola" Chardonnay '97 (12.5%)
Bottle Price £11.50
Case Price £138.00
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100% Chardonnay
Very much top-flight white Burgundy in style at considerably less cost! It has an intense light colour, with subtle oak, fresh flowers and vanilla on nose. It is alanced, clean fresh fruit, and full bodied. Viscous and creamy on the palate it's poise and structure give it excellent length.
Richard Bampfield MW:
(1999) Nutty, lightly oaked aromas, fresh and attractive. Medium to full bodied, with oak in the background, this dry wine is nicely balanced and, owing to the finely balanced acidity, will make a fine match to a variety of foods.
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Maso Cantanghel Trentino "Tajapreda" Merlot '99 (12.5%)
Bottle Price £10.95
Case Price £131.40
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100% Merlot
This time we have the classic Bordeaux grape, the Merlot, grown in Trentino. It prefers the cooler climate and ripens fairly early given sufficient sun while in less sunny years can stay on the vine well into October. The colour is a deep purple-red with a ruby-red rim showing youthful qualities. The bouquet is rich, ripe with a green peppers like texture. Pungent and very attractive with hints of black cherries and blackcurrants. These come through on the palate: ripe, fleshy texture with well balanced fruit and a long sweet ripe finish. It shows the varietal characteristics well.
Richard Bampfield MW:
Deep, youthful colour. Bold, plummy aromas, good varietal character, vibrant and pure. Ripe, crunchy, juicy fruit, yet fundamentally dry, touch of smokiness and cherry tones on the palate. Most successful.
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Maso Cantanghel "Rosso Pila" Cabernet Sauvignon '97 (12.5%)
Bottle Price £15.95
Case Price £191.40
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100% Cabernet Sauvignon
The other major grape variety of Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignan, has been successfully planted around the world. Here in Trentino we again have a superbly well made wine with the typical deep, almost black-purple colour and great 'legs' which show that it will age well. Blackcurrant fruit with real depth and concentration, cassis-like aromas with a hint of green pepper show up well on the palate, which is dry, tangy and fills the mouth. Acidity and tannins are balanced with the fruit to last them out with a deep, long finish. Almost pure essence of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Richard Bampfield MW:
Good, deep colour. Leafy aromas, reminiscent of blackcurrant bush, cassis. Good cassis fruit on the palate, with underlying vegetal, tobacco tones. Good acidity and a fine finish.
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Maso Cantanghel Pinot Nero '97
Bottle Price £15.95
Case Price £191.40
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100% Pinot Nero
Here we have the classic Burgundian grape, the Pinot Noir produced in Trentino. Notoriously difficult to grow outside of Burgundy but here it has been managed wonderfully well. The pale red colour and typical Pinot Nero limpidity belie the depth of character and fruit that show on the nose: Sweet perfumed, strawberries with a strong hint of oak. The palate is soft, dry delicate yet with lingering fruit; again strawberry comes through with a rich well balanced finish. A beautifully made example of Pinot Noir.
Richard Bampfield MW:
Ripe, developed vegatal Pinot aromas. Herbal scents and a hint of rhubarb. Dry, full flavoured, showing fine strawberry and voilet characters.
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Maso Cantanghel "Solitaire" Sauvignon '99
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100% Sauvignon
Produced in the Trento region of North East Italy this 100% Sauvignon wine is a classic and will, I feel, stand comparison with anything the ‘New World’ is producing.
The up-front almost aggressive fruit shows the benefit of spending time in oak: bags of grass, nettles and asparagus on the nose. The taste is divine and lingers forever. Mouthfilling, refreshing and any other ‘ing’ word you can think of. I was seriously amazed and impressed that a wine this good can come out of the Trento. Buy it now before someone else does!
Richard Bampfield MW:
Ripe, pungent Sauvignon aromas, supported by some sweet herbal tones from partial barrel fermentation. Dry, full bodied, good grip, with a sound structure assisted by the balanced use of oak.
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